Using a shipping agent is mandatory in Sri Lanka. There are at least three
in Galle. We used Tango Shipping, who where helpful and pleasant to deal
with. You will probably be asked for gifts by some of the officials involved.
The harbour has no real facilities for yachts. You use your bow anchor
and take stern lines ashore accross a ricketty floating dock. However, it could
be worse - people in general are nice and the country has much to offer
a tourist.
We do not usually mention anchoring positions but, as there are few
cruising guides for this area, and finding an anchorage can be difficult,
we are making an exception for the Maldives. Our original observations
are from January to April 2011, with updates from March-April 2012.
We recommend purchasing the Atlas of the Maldives and Divers and
travellers Maldives Map, both
published by Atoll Editions. They make
planning a lot easier. If you didn't bring them with you, they can be
found at Novelty Bookstore in Male.
C-map is reasonably accurate, sometimes 0.25nm too much to the W,
sometimes 0.25nm too much to the E (strange isn't it?) For an example:
look at the column to the right and click on the third map from the top.
It shows the main pass at Kuredhoo. The red line indicates our actual track.
The circular markers show our initial WP's, taken from the map. The arrows
show the WP's we would use the next time.
Cellphone coverage is excellent (almost) everywhere and the service is
affordable. We also had almost constant access to the internet using a local
mobile internet sim-card on our own dongle, at a very reasonable price.
We used Dhiraagu and paid €10 for 1.6 GB, valid for 30 days (2012).
Because of the good internet coverage, Google Earth is very useful. We have
collected satellite views of all anchorages mentioned below.
Here are two Index-pages of satellite images of two dozen anchorages:
These links above open in new windows, which have "close-buttons".
There are individual links also from each anchorage listed below.
Our
anchorages in the Maldives (North to South):
Haa Alifu (North Thiladhunmathee) atoll
Uligan, in Ihavandhippolhu sub-atoll in the far north is one of the 4
ports of entry. Anchor anywhere otside of the reef SW of the village.
The anchorage is an open roadstead, but well protected from the NE.
Try finding a light coloured sandy spot among the coral, right in front
of the new harbour (under construction January-February 2011).
We stayed here for more than two weeks in February 2011 and had
a good time. We have never met so friendly officials before anywhere.
They will come out to your boat and clear you in.
Diesel and water is available and will be jerry-jugged into your tanks.
The locals will do all the work for you. See report #68.
Less than 500 people live on the island and provisioning is limited.
Good fishing, snorkelling and swimming with big Mantas.
Cellular coverage was reasonably good. Look at a satellite image of Uligan.
Haa Dhaalu (North Thiladhunmathee) atoll
Dhonakulhi, better known to cruisers as Island Hideaway, which is
the name of the resort here. This resort is one of the few which
welcomes cruisers, but this is because there is a marina also.
We anchored outside (2012) and did not visit the restaurant, but
it has been
highly recommended by other cruisers. Cellular coverage. Look at a satellite image of Island Hideaway.
Khulhudhuffushi, is also a port of entry, just 30 nm south of Uligan.
You can anchor inside the comercial port (approx. 06°36.5'N; 073°04'E
puts you at the entrance). In 2011 there was a fee of about 13 USD,
which was calculated from midnight to midnight, so for our 18-hour stay
we paid for two days (16:00 PM to 11:00 AM became 16-24 + 00-11)!
In 2012 this had changed and they charged us only for one day during
a similar visit.
The town has 8,000 inhabitants, a bank, ATM, mobile phone operator
offices etc. 3G cellular coverage. Look at a satellite image of Khulhudhuffushi.
Shaviani (North Miladhunmadulu) atoll
Goidhoo (06°25.7'N; 072°55.08'E), on the edge of a reef in 6 metres,
sand and coral, just next to the drop-off. Exposed to the NE and SW,
otherwise with reasonable protection. Lots of fish for supper.
No village in sight. Cellular coverage. Look at a satellite image of Goidhoo.
Dholhiyaddhoo (05°59.50'N; 073°13.35'E). A resort is under
construction and had yet not opened in March 2012. Anchorage
coordinates are in 8 metres, sand, in NE corner. Protected from all but
winds between SE and SW. Some swell may enter over E reef at high
tide. Good snorkelling near anchorage. No village. Cellular coverage. Look at a satellite image of Dholhiyaddhoo.
Lhaviyani (Faadhippolhu) atoll
Kuredhoo island, in front of Kuredu resort, W of their quay at approx.
05°32.6'N; 073°27.8'E. Lots of space in 5-13 metres of sandy bottom.
You are "welcome" to visit the island only if you pay 50 USD per person
(just) for putting your foot ashore (February 2011). Cellular coverage. Look at a satellite image of Kuredhoo.
Varihuraa island, (05°18.06'N; 073°29.4'E) on the edge of the reef in
6m to 20m of sand and coral. A useful anchorage in settled weather.
Exposed to all winds except N, but I wouldn't like to be there in a strong
blow even from that direction. Coral dead. No village. Cellular coverage. Look at a satellite image of Varihuraa.
Male Atoll (Kaafu)
Makunudhoo (04°32.45'N; 073°24.35'E) is a resort island. We arrived
around 16:30 and did nor have good visibility trying to find a good spot
for the anchor. Lots of coral and it gets very shallow in an instant.
Beware! This is the resort where they said that the manager was not
available. Obviously we didn't go ashore. Good protection from W via N
to E. Cellular coverage. Look at a satellite image of Makunudhoo.
Merufenfushi. The entrance is in the north at 04°28.6' N, 073°43.9' E.
Unfortunately the Meeru resort is the most unwelcoming that we have
experineced. We anchored more than 500m from shore and were chased
away. We moved to a less protected spot more than 1km from shore.
It was already too late in the afternoon for eye balling, but with better
light we could probably have moved closer to the island of Dhiffushi to
the south, where there is a village and no resort. There are lots of
shallow coral heads
in the lagoon. A very disappointing experience.
Thulusdhoo (04°22.6' N, 073°38.8' E) on the eastern edge of North
Male atoll is the administrative centre of the atoll (excl. Male). A very
friendly village with a population of 1,250. The harbour is well protected
from NE to SW and reasonable protection in fair conditions from all
around the compass. Best protection is close to the village dock, but it is
possible to anchor in a large area inside the lagoon in 5-8 metres, sand.
Pos. 04°23.1' N, 073°38.9' E takes you through the outer reef. The
pass through the inner reef is (2011) marked with two pairs of sticks (red
and green lights in 2011). Avoid a shallow spot to starboard, just inside
of the pass.
There are shops and two hotels, accomodating surfing
entusiasts. Two of the best surf spots of the atoll can be found on the
east side of the island. Water and fuel (in jugs) is available. There is a
Coca-Cola factory, which is said to be the only one in the world which
makes Coke from desalinated water. They are also building large vessels
(up to 30m) from fibreglass. Look for the local guide Hassan
(nick name Chikaa), whos family owns one of the hotels, but he will
probably find you first. This was one of our favorite anchorages, a
welcome change from all the resort islands, where you are not welcome.
Cellular coverage is good. Photo of the pass is looking NW from inside.
Hulumale island harbour (entrance at 04°12.'8N; 073°31.7E') is the
preferred anchorage of Male. Reasonable protection and good holding.
Lots of local boats, but plenty of space. Ferries leave for Male
around the clock. Male has a nice atmosphere and provisioning is good.
Almost any boat work can be done and there is a shipyard where one
can haul out big boats. However, it is not cheap. 3G coverage.
Fuel and water can be purchased from barges, that come alongside.
Click the satellite image in the right hand column for a larger view. Look at a satellite image of Hulumale.
South Male Atoll (Kaafu)
Velassaru (04°06.9'N; 073°26'E) There is a large area south of the
resort island, with even depths of around 12m and scattered coral-
heads. Good protection from N-NE and reasonable protection from
whole north semi-circle. Safest entrance is from S after circling all of
the E reef. However, the reef can be crossed from the E with good
visibility at two spots at least: There is a marker with green light at
04°06.717'N; 073°26.256'E. Leave this stick a few metres either side,
depths 3.5-5m, and enter on a course of 305°T. Four cables south
is (2011) a plastic marker at 04°06.41'N; 073°26.01'E, leave it to port
and enter on a course of 343°T, depths 8m minimum. There are quite
a few large bommies in the bay, but most of them have at least 3.5m
of water above them (even though they look shallower).
Velassaru Resort is the one, which told us that minimum charge for
coming ashore was 150 USD per person. See Cruiser's Paradise Lost.
Cellular coverage. Look at a satellite image of Velassaru.
Emboodhoofinolhu has a reported anchorage at 04°05.42'N;
073°31.17'E. We tried to find it one day when there was (only) 17kn
of NE winds, but found little protection and nothing even resembling
an anchorage, so apparently this is a spot for calm weather only.
Emboodhoo (04°04.9'N; 073°30.5'E) would be well protected from
NW-NE, but the resort has fenced off a large area S of the island with
plastic buoys. We couldn't get inside the 30m curve and had to return
to Velassaru 5nm to the W. Outrageous.
Guraidhoo (03°53.x'N; 073°27.x'E) Look at a satellite image of Guraidhoo.
Vaavu Atoll (Felidhe)
Giraa Falhu - just south of Keyodhoo island,
(03°27.2'N; 073°32.9'E). I found this anchorage using Google
Earth. There are quite a few coral heads and our buddies on
s/y Elaine got their anchor fouled and had to free it by diving.
There is a local harbour on Keyodhoo to the north, which some
cruisers have reported useful.
Look at a satellite image of Giraa Falhu and Keyodhoo.
Laamu Atoll (Hadhdhunmathee)
Thundudhoshu Finolhu - just south of Vadinolhu pass,
(02°00.35'N; 073°2176'E) Look at a satellite image of this anchorage.
Gaafu Alifu Atoll (North Huvadhoo)
Kolamaafushi (00°50.9' N, 073°11.12' E), 3G internet
Very welcoming people. The anchorage is well protected but
a swell can build up from the reef entrance in the north.
It is possible to enter the harbour for complete shelter, but
we didn't need to, so we did not check the exact depth. Look at a satellite image of Kolamaafushi.
Dhaandhoo (00°36.69' N, 073°28.01' E)
A sandy patch 4-10 metres depth, but completely open to
the west. Some of the best snorkelling anywhere.
Mobile connection was good. Look at a satellite image of this anchorage.
Hadahaa, Park Hyatt Resort (00°50.9' N, 073°11.12' E)
We called in advance and were allowed to pick up a mooring
provided we would spend a minimum of USD 100 per person.
Read about the aftermath HERE (link not yet active).
3G internet, naturally. Look at a satellite image of Hadahaa island.
Gaafu Dhaalu Atoll (South Huvadhoo)
Boduhutta (00°11.9' N, 073°12.9' E), 3G internet.
The only place we know of in the Maldives with a large area
of 3-10 metres depths over a sandy bottom. Great place but,
as with almost all atoll anchorages
it is wide open for almost
180 degrees - in the case of Boduhutta to north. Look at a satellite image of this area.
Gnaviani Atoll (Foamullah)
Foamullah (0x°x' S, 07x°x' E), 3G internet.
The co-ordinates puts you just otside the harbour entrance.
Beware of mooring lines criss-crossing the harbour.
(see photo regarding this problem in our report #77)
There are no other anchorages at this atoll.
3G internet and most services are available. Getting fuel is
particularly easy here, from a truck on the quay. Look at a satellite image of Foamullah island.
Addu Atoll
Gan (0x°x' S, 07x°x' E), 3G internet.
We didn't enter the inner basin north of the causeway between
Gan and Feydhoo, but anchored just outside of the entrance,
where we found a sandy patch around 10 metres deep (although
the yacht drifted back over depths nearly 30 metres). It is
possible, though to enter the inner basin with care, leaving the
sticks maybe 5 metres to starboard and keeping your keel along
the light coloured groove on the bottom. I measured 2.5 metres.
See photos of the area by clicking the buttons below
Look at a satellite image of this area.
We anchored just north of the first marker, as seen here:
The flag of the Maldives
Click
on maps
for a blow up
Kuredhoo pass on our version of C-map
Hulumale harbour NE of runway. Male is in
the lower left corner of this satellite image.
CHAGOS (anchorages and cruising notes)
We do not usually mention anchoring positions or way-points, but we are making an exception for Chagos. Our observations are from April-May 2012.
Salomon Atoll
Boddam island (05°21.4' S, 072°12.9' E)
Satellite view of Salomon atoll: The position indicated on the image shows the outer waypoint for entering the pass. We went straight from there to 05°18.8' S, 072°14.8' E and had 6m at the lowest, but keep a constant lookout for coralheads. (Click on image for blow-up). Boddam is the island down in the SW corner.
LOCATION · LOG & YARNS · GALLERY · WHAT's NEW?
Se our 2012 reports: 
